Marseille, tips, and a spontaneous pop-up at the dreamy Tuba Club

I have just finished 5 days in Marseille and I think I am in love. The fish is fresh, the ocean water is crisp, and the people are interesting. There is a ruggedness and energy to this city that I am infatuated with. I felt a weird sense of familiarity in Marseille. Maybe this has something to do with how close the city is to North Africa. I learnt that Moroccan and Tunisian Jews travelled through Marseille on their exit from their home countries in the 60s, many of whom ended up staying in this port city. And I can see why.

On my first day in Marseille, after renting a scooter and heading 20 minutes down the coast to Les Goudes, I found myself in the dreamy Tuba club, perched metres from the water, eating fresh sea bream and staring the Mediterranean directly in the eye. I was chatting with the chef, Sylvain Roucayrol who invited me to come back to the restaurant that weekend to cook a collaborative menu with recipes from my cookbook. This invitation and the spontaneous pop-up that followed was a dream moment. Inspired by the unique setting, we created seafood forward plates, blending both our recipes and heritages. Being in that kitchen was another example of the pleasure that can come from cooking professionally, with people who are kind, dedicated and genuinely excited about food and traditions.

At the end of that Saturday cooking by the water, I jumped into the ocean at a small cove near my apartment. My body warmed by the adrenaline of the cold water hitting my skin. A sensation of fullness and delight washed over me. It was a feeling of satisfaction from a successful event, it was gratitude for the opportunity to cook in such a beautiful place, it was a sense of growth and excitement for the future.

Recommendations for places I loved in Marseille -

I stayed in the neighbourhood of Malmousque, which I loved. Wander through the fruit store on the Corniche, buy tomatoes and produce for breakfasts as well as strawberries, salted chips and beers for various late afternoon moments by the beach. I recommend hiring a scooter if you are able to ride one. Riding around the seaside, stopping for a wine on your way through the Calanques is everything.

Cécile Food Club Malmousque - a newish spot on the Corniche, cute energy, very good coffee and delicious seaside fricassé (Tunisian sandwich). Get your sandwich to go, walk down one of the nearby side streets and find your way to a beautiful swimming spot.

Tuba Club - the sexiest seaside spot, a 20 minute drive from our neighbourhood of Malmousque. The restaurant and hotel is directly on the water, and on warm days they put tables out on the rocks. If you can get a room in the hotel, you should book a room. Either way, book a table for lunch or dinner. Rapha and I ate a long lunch then changed into bathers and spent the rest of the afternoon on the rocks swimming and drinking St Germain spritzes. Fast forward a few days and I was cooking in the Tuba Club kitchen. Heaven.

Figure - for a very delicious meal out on the street at sunset. Beautiful wines and elegant plates.

Chez Etienne - for the historic and old school family energy. Half cheese and olive, half tomato and anchovy pizza. I personally couldn’t go past the plate of lamb chops grilled in the wood oven. Apple galette with ice cream was stunning.

Maison L'Emperor - a very old French general store to get lost in. Kitchen, cutlery, crockery, fabric, DIY, hardware. Fun to explore.

Hamam Zeïn - an easy place to miss, hidden in the old port of Marseille- a beautiful spot to steam and bathe underground. 30 and 60 degree celsius steaming rooms, cold showers, hot stones to lie down on. Massages too.

Focus Focus - an independent eyewear boutique and optician. Rapha and I had the best time perusing through the sunglasses range here. Matthieu recently opened the store and he has a beautiful eye, spending time taking you through various options without any judgement. Really recommend stopping by and saying hi even if you are not in need of a pair.

Parfumerie de la corniche - a very sweet perfumerie - good hair clips and jewellery.

Jogging - a fun concept store to explore clothing, design, lifestyle and to eat lunch in.

Maison du gant - an iconic old store, specialising in swimwear, tights, accessories and gloves (on the pricier side).

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Also, upcoming events:

Athens: I will be cooking at Wine is Fine on the 11th and 12th July. I would love if you booked in for dinner and came to say hi. I haven't decided what I will cook just yet, but I am sure something along the lines of my focaccia with whipped butter, seasonal small fish and vegetables doused in local greek olive oil, beautiful wine vinegars and fragrant garlic.

London: I am coming to London on my way back to Australia (dates tbc). I want to cook! Reach out if you want to collaborate.

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